CL-002 Open-bottom curtain pelmet with removable lid

Reduce the open circulation path over an existing curtain rod with a cleanable top enclosure, while keeping the curtain free to travel.

Limits and intended use

Materials and cuts

PartQtyFinished inches and millimetersMaterial
P01 Front board142 x 3 1/2 x 3/4 in
1066.8 x 88.9 x 19.05 mm
sound untreated cedar or other durable untreated wood
P02 End cheeks25 1/4 x 3 1/2 x 3/4 in
133.35 x 88.9 x 19.05 mm
sound untreated cedar or other durable untreated wood
P03 Lift-off top142 x 6 x 1/2 in
1066.8 x 152.4 x 12.7 mm
exterior-bond plywood for protected non-food-contact fixtures; substitute thickness only by recalculating joints
P04 Rear mounting cleat140 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 in
1028.7 x 38.1 x 19.05 mm
sound untreated cedar or other durable untreated wood; no unknown salvage

Hardware and purchased components

Tools

Step-by-step assembly

  1. Inspect sound stock and a stable work surface. In the drawings x runs left to right, y front to rear and z upward.
  2. Measure actual stock before cutting; nominal board names are not finished cross sections. Match each part to its label and material in the cut schedule.
  3. Mark each finished cut separately, leaving saw kerf outside the line. Label parts, target +/-1/16 in and ease all hand-contact edges.
  4. Measure the entire curtain-rod bracket projection and travelling rings, then make a cardboard 42 x 6 in plan template. The box offers 40-1/2 in clear width and 4-1/2 in clear depth below its lid. It must clear the moving rod and fabric by at least 1/2 in. This worked size is for a rod no wider than 40 in.
  5. Place each 5-1/4 in cheek behind an end of the front board. Their front ends touch the front board rear face, so the finished outside depth is 6 in. Clamp all three lower edges flush on a flat bench.
  6. Drill four staggered pilots from the front face into each cheek end, clear of board edges. Drive the eight 1-1/2 in screws, using a depth stop so no point exits the narrow cheek faces. Countersink only enough to seat heads.
  7. Place the 40-1/2 in rear cleat between cheeks at y=5-1/4 to 6 in, its lower edge 2 in above the front lower edge. Predrill two side-entry screws at each end, at 2-3/8 and 3-1/8 in height. Keep these holes away from front-corner screws.
  8. Set the 42 x 6 in top over the full outside outline. Fit two magnetic catches on the rear cleat and two on the front inside face, with corresponding lid plates. Use screws whose penetration into the 1/2 in lid remains no more than 3/8 in; pick the actual catch before marking holes.
  9. Remove the lid. Locate sound wall framing through the rear cleat and use compatible mounting screws with embedment selected for the actual wall. Set the open bottom above the curtain travel path and do not enclose a heater, smoke alarm or ventilation grille.
  10. Reinstall the lift-off lid and run the curtain from fully open to fully closed several times. Check that rings, fabric folds and pull cords do not catch on the cleat or magnetic catches. No dangling cord loop is added by this project.
  11. After a cold evening inspect both the pelmet interior and window reveal for moisture. A top enclosure is not a substitute for whole-room ventilation. Lift off the lid periodically to dust, and remove the assembly if moisture or curtain interference persists.
  12. Complete the listed acceptance checks before use. Record changes to stock or fittings; retain this sheet with the finished assembly.
CL-002 plan dimensioned construction drawingCL-002 front dimensioned construction drawing

Acceptance checks

Cleaning and maintenance

Primary context

Primary references support context only. Design geometry, cut schedule, assembly and drawings are original editorial work, not certified or endorsed by the named agencies.